Suiting Types

I know ive touched on this before , but here is a more rounded view of suit types.

Bespoke Confusion
The word “bespoke” is misused far more often than not. To clear up some of the confusion, herewith the types of suit-making processes explained:

A ready-to-wear (aka RTW) suit is made from a standard pattern in a standard size and customized, if at all, by the buyer's tailor.

A made-to-measure (aka MTM) suit begins with a client’s basic measurements being taken. The material chosen by the customer is cut from a bolt of cloth using a standard pattern and then altered to reflect the customer’s measurements as the garment is made. Usually there are no fittings in the making of a made-to-measure garment. The finished product is delivered to the customer ready to go and not altered unless there is a problem with the fit.

A bespoke suit begins with an entire page of measurements (35 measurements is one number given). A specialist called a “cutter” uses these measurements to draft a pattern on a piece of heavy brown paper (sometimes the tailor is also a cutter). All of the customer's physical idiosyncrasies are reflected in the pattern. The finished pattern is cut out of the brown paper and then the shell material is cut from that. The material then goes to the tailor for assembly.
After the initial visit when measurements are taken and fabrics and options are chosen the customer returns for a minimum of three fittings as the suit evolves. At the first fitting the coat is only a shell held together with large basting stitches. By the second fitting the coat will likely have some padding in it. The lining will not appear in the coat until the third fitting. At each stage the tailor makes small adjustments, marking up the material with tailor's chalk and calling out notes to a colleague. These changes are noted on the customer’s pattern and often a new pattern is cut based on what the cutter and tailor learn during the fittings.
The suit is not delivered to (I should say "released to") the customer until the tailor is satisfied with it. Russell Smith, in his book Men’s Style; The Thinking Man’s Guide to Dress, says that “a good bespoke suit is as comfortable as pajamas.” This is because it fits you as perfectly as a garment can.

Loosely speaking, a made-to-measure suit fits twice as well as a properly altered ready-to-wear suit and is usually of better materials. There is no comparing either to a well done bespoke suit. A second-hand bespoke suit that has been properly altered for the new owner is the equivalent of a made-to-measure suit but of much higher quality materials.

It is important to note that there are excellent suits made of each of these types. So long as you are getting the suit that you are paying for you can be satisfied.

The rolling of the sleeves.

Spring 35'

I came across this interesting read which pictured a gentleman's attire in the 1935 spring season , on a daily basis this would be a mans full accessories chart of semi-formal day wear

1. yellow shirt with white starched collar. 

2. Tan mocha gloves. 
3. DB 6X2 black jacket. 
4. Shepherd checked trousers. 
5. grey hose with yellow clocks. 
6. black antelope cigarette case and silver license holder with automobile key. 
7. lavender pleated shirt with white starched collar. 
8. snake-wood cane with gold band. 
9. Malacca walking stick. 
10. a pair of black shoes with grey cloth button tops. 
11. blue clocked hose. 
12. blue pleated shirt with white starched collar. 
13. lavender hose with clocks. 
14. shepherd check bow tie. 
15. midnight blue homburg hat. 
16. black antelope bill fold and a white pearl stickpin. 
17. blue address book. 
18. blue enameled pencil and a black cigarette holder. 
19. SB grey waistcoat. 
20. yellow buckskin gloves. 

Style Sages: Alan Flusser

American Heritage

For those that dont know by now  -American heritage brands are being discovered by a new generation -Pendleton flannel shirts, Woolrich buffalo plaids, Filson field bags  etc etc. Read the full story here.

(rī)1 Whiskey Premium Rye Whiskey

Whiskey has been in heavy rotation lately. Today, Notcot introduced the newest premium grade whiskey to hit the shelves from Beam. “Bottled at 92 proof, (rī)1 features a light, slightly spicy flavor and a long, luxurious finish. Straight, the nose offers a gentle, peppery nod to its rye heritage. Cut with water, the scents of dried fruit and cinnamon push to the front, providing a rich palate experience.”

Bugatti Veyron “Chrome”

As if the Bugatti Veyron is not impressive enough, they introduced the ''chrome'' makeup of this supercar. You can be sure that everybody will turn around when this car passes by -and not to check out their reflection.

National Geographic Store

Retail Week: National Geographic opens on Regent Street, London from Retail Week on Vimeo.“Retail Week editor John Ryan visits the opening of the National Geographic store on London’s Regent Street and speaks to Worldwide Retail Store chief executive Pere Matamales about the unique concept.”

The Slipper

Slippers-which of course are bedroom footwear that may be worn in other parts of the house. There are different kinds for instance- Slip-on casuals, which were once considered house shoes by men who lived in castles.

Extending across several types is the Albert slipper, named after Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, Queen Victoria's consort. A velvet slipper with a leather sole and quilted silk lining, it is worn about the house, particularly with black tie, as well as anywhere that smoking jackets are appropriate. Alberts are offered by all the major English shoemakers as well as a couple companies that specialize in them exclusively.

Lesser slippers tend to be of moccasin construction, where a single piece of the slipper's material simply extends under the foot. The pictured version is one half a dozen versions that were originally designed by Henri Bendell in the 1940's and are sold to this day as Belgian Shoes and, according to Alan Flusser in one of his older books, the leopard version is the one to get. 

Indoors ,that's the best way to treat soleless slippers. They'll give many years of service if they're worn on carpeting but a dozen blocks on city sidewalks will be the death of them.

Fall Socks : Argyle

One of fall's best socks are the argyle, the diamond pattern that was first seen when an anonymous Scotsman cut his tartan blanket on the bias to use as a foot covering. Argyles became popular with knicker-wearing golfers in the twentieth century and were brought to the U.S. by Brooks Brothers.

Today's argyles are a casual sock, not quite formal enough to wear with conservative suits but a perfectly appropriate bit of color year-round with odd jackets and sports clothing. My personal favorites are knit in both fine cotton and merino wool by Milan's (on order)Marcoliani . A man should choose the mid calf length for walking the golf course or other athletic activities where he won't be sitting down and inadvertantly displaying a bit of bare leg. Stick with the over the calf version the rest of the time.

Choose the usual seasonal colors for autumn. The cinnamon pair shown adds interest to khaki, corduroy and moleskin trousers. 

S-ASW