I came across this great little read and wanted to share it, your thoughts and comments are appreciated :)
The basic suits in a wardrobe should be made from high quality fabrics in unremarkable colors and patterns. The suit is the most expensive garment a man wears during the day, and the purpose of conservative suitings is to minimize the number of suits required to realize a reasonable variety in his appearance.
Accessories let you achieve different looks with the same suits. A dark gray suit, for example, will be comfortable paired with a pink checked shirt, maroon necktie and dark brown shoes, and look different but equally appropriate with a wide spread collared blue twill shirt, dark green foulard necktie and black shoes the next wearing.
The man who wears a suit infrequently, or is just beginning his wardrobe, should begin with suits in dark gray and navy. The navy is better for evenings and for more formal occasions such as a wedding. The gray is a basic daytime suit, appropriate for a job interview.
The next step up, for the man who wears suits every day, is five suits, with a sixth recommended to allow for cleaning and repairs. The additional suits give each garment time to rest and recover its shape between wearings in addition to providing greater wardrobe flexibility. For example, midnight blue is a better choice for evening wear than navy. Navy is a better daytime color for most complexions.
Men in temperate climates should begin with a basic wardrobe made from medium weight cloth. Fabric weight is measured in ounces per linear yard (36” x 60”) or linear meter of fabric. Standard medium weight cloth of 10 - 11 ounces per yard is considered “ten month” suiting that can be worn on all but the very warmest days.
If you’re having your suits made to measure or made by a tailor, you’ll choose the cloth from swatch books containing actual samples. An established tailor may offer thousands of choices.
The challenges grow greater when you are buying suits off the rack, as your choices are limited to those chosen for you by the retailer. Few stores will offer heavier cloth for winter or the best open weave cloths for summer. Your best defense is to visit a tailor and learn to feel the different weights for yourself. Suits are expensive, and the education will prove worthwhile
Expanding a Basic Wardrobe
For most men, building a wardrobe takes years. To expand your wardrobe you’ll need to acquire more suits each year than you wear out, a formula that varies according to the frequency that you wear each suit and the quality of its construction.
As you expand your basic wardrobe your objectives should be to extend the lives of your existing suits, provide choices for different occasions and acquire clothing that will be comfortable in a broader range of temperatures. Men in temperate climates who wear suits every day should initially supplement the basic six suits with three suits for hot weather, and three suits for cold weather.
Cold weather suits of 13 ounce wool will provide durability, warmth and drape. 13 ounce suitings are comfortable without an overcoat in temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit as well as in normally heated offices. They wear, hang and keep their shape better than suits made from lighter weight cloth.
Open weave 10 ounce cloths are best for warm weather suits, which should be no more than partially lined as the lining material inhibits air circulation. The warm weather standard for tailor-made suits is a quarter lining, which means that the sleeves are lined so your arms slide smoothly in and out, but most of the rest of the coat is unlined.
Loosely woven fabrics for warm weather include high twist wool fresco, mohair and wool blends. Ten ounce versions of these combine temperature control with reasonable drape and durability. They are actually cooler to wear than lighter weight tropical wools that do not breathe, but they are also more difficult to find unless you have them made for you.
If at all possible, most men should avoid tropical weight cloth of 7-8 ounce fabric in their basic wardrobe. Suits made from tropical wool are prone to wrinkle, less durable, and are warmer to wear than medium weight cloth that has been loosely woven to permit air circulation in hot weather. Unfortunately, tropical wool is also the ready to wear cloth sold most widely because it’s less expensive than heavier cloth of the same quality. It is usually offered with a full lining that further inhibits air circulation.
Spring and summer suits can be in lighter shades of blue and gray, as well as tan, because lighter colors look better in bright sunlight.
If you have reason to wear suits on weekends or holidays, one or two tweed suits for cold weather and one or two linen suits for hot days are excellent choices.
Irish linen’s typically rumpled look is also too casual for many offices but it’s an elegant choice for warm weather weekends and holidays. Like the Holland & Sherry cloth in the photo, it should weigh as much as 14 ounces, to minimize wrinkling but its open weave promotes air circulation and keeps you cool. A cream double breasted linen suit is one of the classics.
Tweed suits became rarities once central heating became commonplace. Typically 18 ounce cloth, they were too warm to wear indoors. Fortunately, there is now a selection of tweed weighing as little as 12 ounces that offers excellent alternatives for travel and suburban wear. Since they won’t usually be going to the city, choose country cloths with a brown or green base.
The Medium Wardrobe
As your suit wardrobe grows, you should continue to balance it so as to provide a selection of clothing for any weather and occasion. A medium-sized suit wardrobe in a temperate climate might be comprised of two dozen suits:
The first priority when buying a new dress shirt is to consider the collars. It is the mens dress shirts collars that are directly under your face. It frames your dress shirts as well as the face.
If it does not complement the shape of your face, then the overall look of your dress shirt will be inappropriate for you.
For example, if the collar is narrow and the face is wide and round, then it will further enhance the size of your head. Naturally, this disproportionate design causes an imbalance to the rest of your dress shirt.
See above for different collar types and below for a quick reference guide, sure there are other collars but these are the most popular and mostly seen in todays world.
ETON COLLAR
The Eton Collar, so named for Eton schoolboys, requires a collar pin.
TAB COLLAR
The Tab Collar, with snap button, keeps the tie in place, with a nice forward tilt, throughout the day, also first worn by the Duke of Windsor.The Double Button Collar
This collar tends to have a more sophisticated look especially when not worn with a tie. It shows that one has paid attention to the detail of the collar and may imply that you know a thing or two about dress shirts.
Mao Collar
Originally from China, this collar is a completely other world. With no flips, this dress shirt collar in the Western world makes for a unique casual dress shirt.
