Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Fall







With August almost here Fall is right around the corner and its time to start thinking about some new pieces to add to your wardrobe.

Here are a few items that would be a great addition to any gentleman's closet.

Loro Piana baby cashmere peacoat with military detail $8,500
Band of Outsiders Corduroy Suit - Jacket $1,610 Pant $520 
Brunello Cucinelli Suede Puffer vest $2,325
Cantarelli Cashmere Navy Dinner Jacket - $1,295
Common Projects Shoes $410
Hickey Freeman Dinner Jacket with silk shawl collar $1,195 

Monday, July 28, 2008

Thursday, July 24, 2008

And im off for the weekend......

The Economy


Good times or bad few of us can have everything we want and we have to establish our own priorities. For me these days, sales hold few bargains. My needs, or rather my desires,are highly specific and unlikely to be found on sale.

Its important to remember that the cost of clothing  is not the initial cost, but the price divided by the number of times it's worn, plus some arbitrary amount of bonus points for the pleasure it provides(or at least thats how id like to see it). A bespoke suit worn for twenty years can be a bargain. 

That said, I have my own ways to economize. For example, I am planning on buying my own cloth for odd trousers and send it to a factory where its made up. Trousers are principally straight seams and I don't see enough difference between MTM and bespoke in this instance to warrant paying twice as much per pair. Id like to try and do the same with overcoats and going forward with most of my shirts , being that off the rack shirts are hard to come by for a perfect fit.

The best economy is a wardrobe of simple, obviously high quality items that give you pleasure every time you wear them. The uncomplicated odd jacket and gray flannels to the left can be dressed up or down with changes to its accessories, so it can be worn repeatedly without becoming tiresome.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Getting some use







Things you buy and actually get good use of ... here are just a few that play a role in my current weekly if not daily life.

Kiehls spf 15 moisturizer - $22.00
Burts Bee's Lifeguards choice lip protection $3.00
Acme case - $125.00
Ralph Lauren cashmere throw blanket $495.00
Wahl Peanut shaver - $40.00
Neutrogena face bar - $4.00 


Friday, July 18, 2008

Great Clothing Book




Check out these great clothing books, that is if you can get your paws on them.

Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions by O. E. Schoeffler & William Gale. Esquire was once a style leader and the Encyclopedia covers what it thought about every category of men's clothing from the turn of the century through the 1970's. On the required reading list for every aspiring menswear designer and ferociously expensive -$540 used.



Men in Style, Woody Hochswender & Kim Johnson Gross. Learn how men dressed during the Golden Age from these Apparel Arts & Esquire illustrations.

The book will run you about $200 - used

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Summer Casual


The man on the left in the illustration does a good job of showing us how to deal with the hot season.

Start as he does with a linen short sleeved shirt, preferably one with cuffs on the sleeves and two pockets on the chest, and self-belted shorts made from cotton or linen. Consider tieing a cotton bandanna around the neck but don't worry about it either way. Slip into a pair of espadrilles, with or without ankle ties, and head for the bar for a cold drink like the French 75. Pour a jigger of gin into a flute, add half a glass of sparkling wine or champagne, lemon juice and simple syrup to taste, and top off with more sparkling wine. 

On cooler days or slightly more formal occasions, substitute linen trousers for the shorts. And that sums up summer casual. 

Monday, July 14, 2008

Tie Me Up ! Untie Me !


I recently needed some info on caring for my ties , heres what i gathered.

Caring for a tie isn’t as simple as you may think. A tie requires much more than being clumsily stuffed in a drawer when it’s not being worn. It also requires care when being taken off. For example, when removing your tie, don't pull the thin end through the knot unless you want to ruin the tie’s shape. Instead, remove the tie by following the tie-tying steps in reverse. And this tip is just the beginning…

To preserve this delicate component of your wardrobe, follow these easy tips so that your favorite ties hang with you for years to come.

Storage

Even more important than the way you wear your tie is the way you store it. The first step in maintaining your tie collection is putting it away properly. Regardless of the type of fabric silk or wool -- ties are delicate. As soon as your tie comes off, hang it around a coat hanger or over the dowel in your closet, don’t lay it down on the dresser or throw it over a chair. Hanging the tie up properly allows the creases from the knot to fall out- plus, hanging it in your closet keeps it out of bright, natural light that can fade the fabric.
Most department stores sell inexpensive hangers just for ties, paying you big dividends on a small investment. And for the guy on the go, transport your tie in your luggage by folding it into fours and placing it inside your coat pocket, shoe or sock. For the more meticulous packer, specialty tie cases exist that are designed to hold your tie flat and secure. 

Wrinkles

Wrinkles are a universal sign of aging, and ties are no exception to this fact. The more often a tie gets tied, the more knot impressions it sustains and absorbs, so you must do all you can to protect your ties from excessive wrinkles. The first step in preventing wrinkles is to never wear the same tie two days in a row; like a good pair of shoes for say, a tie needs time to regain its shape. But, regardless of your best efforts, your ties are probably going to wrinkle. The key is knowing how to get the wrinkles out.

While storing your ties properly is your first line of defense, it may not be enough. As a backup, turn to steam. The easiest trick is to hang your tie inside the bathroom while you shower. Or, for tougher wrinkles, use a handheld steamer to remove deep-set, pesky creases. Conair makes several inexpensive models, many of which are sized for travel. Carrying a handheld steamer while traveling is great not only for ties, but also for shirts, pants and suits.

Stains

Depending on the fabric of the tie, the tiniest of stains can ruin the garment. When it comes to keeping dirt off your tie, use the utmost vigilance to keep it stain-free because the first step in treating stains is preventing them.

A tie tack works wonders for keeping your tie out of harm’s way (aka your plate). But, while a tie tack holds the tie in place, it also puts a hole in the fabric. Prevent these punctures by putting the tack underneath the tie, through the label. You’ll get the same effect without the drawback.

A tie tack, however, is not a cure-all for stains. In every man’s life, a little food must fall... and when it falls on your tie, act quickly. For most accidents, if you immediately blot the stain lightly with cold water or soda water it will prevent the stain from setting in. But for greasy or oily stains, water won’t work. Instead, apply talcum powder to the spot as soon as possible -- it will absorb the oily moisture from the fabric.

If neither cold water nor talcum powder works in ridding the stain, all hope is not lost. To save your favorite tie, there is one last-ditch effort that will work: a specialty tie-cleaning service. Tiecrafters in New York, for example, will completely deconstruct your tie, clean the fabric, and then reassemble it. If you opt for a tie-cleaning service, investigate their cleaning process and make sure they don’t simply press the tie, mashing its rolled edges flat.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Luggage


After returning from a trip last night i wanted to share my thoughts on luggage.
The current set of security restrictions on hand luggage show no signs of going away and for those of us who must fly commercial (soon it will be private of course) the problem of finding attractive but checked and capable luggage isn't going away either.
Of course one can purchase perfectly acceptable ballistic nylon luggage from companies like Tumi or say Samsonite. The only problem with these for instance is that they've been so successful that after some flights every bag on the carousel is black ballistic nylon, and there are men who like to show a bit more originality if only to higher the likli-hood of arriving home with their own clothes.
Tucked into a storefront in London's Burlington Arcade is a company called Globe-Trotter Luggage. Globe-Trotter has been making wood framed cases with a proprietary resin product called Vulcan Fibre since the nineteenth century. They're used by well-dressed men like Prince Phillip, Duke of Edinburgh, but it's visibility that we're primarily looking for today. And indeed, Globe-Trotter cases are available in just about any imaginable color.
In addition to standing out on the carousel, Globe-Trotter cases are dent resistant and easy to clean. Airport dirt wipes off with a damp cloth. Just try that with leather luggage.
I also appreciate how comparing Globe-Trotter to say- Vuitton makes the prices seem relatively affordable. They're not of course. A three or four piece set will set a man back five figures in depreciated dollars at Nieman Marcus, which carries the line in the United States. The price is another reason they won't be too common on baggage carousels. And that's the point.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Independence Day Vacation




On vacation for the weekend 

enjoy your 4th in style.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Bespoke



The word "custom" is one of the most abused in the English language. Uneducated or just over-eager salespeople use it to describe stock specials or made to measure. Whatever they may be selling, they either don't know or don't want to tell you. Both are a bad sign.

Stock specials are ready to wear suits sold as separates, so the store can provide a better fit by giving a man a jacket in one size and trousers that are larger or smaller than normal because he is. When a suit is made to his measurements using a modified stock pattern, with fabric and styling selecting from a wide range of options by the customer, that's made to measure and the additional customization means it costs more than a stock special. And once in a very rare while, custom is used to describe true bespoke tailoring where a paper pattern is first made to the customer's measurements and that pattern is then used to cut the cloth. All things being equal, bespoke tailoring is more time intensive and still more expensive than made to measure.

In the hands of competent professionals any of these alternatives can provide satisfactory results. But too often I've seen 'custom' used to deceive the customer into paying too much for something less than he's expecting or just fooled into thinking he's getting something better than he is paying for. 

Be careful out there.