Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Bespoke



The word "custom" is one of the most abused in the English language. Uneducated or just over-eager salespeople use it to describe stock specials or made to measure. Whatever they may be selling, they either don't know or don't want to tell you. Both are a bad sign.

Stock specials are ready to wear suits sold as separates, so the store can provide a better fit by giving a man a jacket in one size and trousers that are larger or smaller than normal because he is. When a suit is made to his measurements using a modified stock pattern, with fabric and styling selecting from a wide range of options by the customer, that's made to measure and the additional customization means it costs more than a stock special. And once in a very rare while, custom is used to describe true bespoke tailoring where a paper pattern is first made to the customer's measurements and that pattern is then used to cut the cloth. All things being equal, bespoke tailoring is more time intensive and still more expensive than made to measure.

In the hands of competent professionals any of these alternatives can provide satisfactory results. But too often I've seen 'custom' used to deceive the customer into paying too much for something less than he's expecting or just fooled into thinking he's getting something better than he is paying for. 

Be careful out there.

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